Gucci marks creative transition with lush looks recalling eras past

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MILAN (AP) — Gone is the deep Gucci red. Here is the dark Gucci green.

The fashion house signaled its creative transition on the first day of Milan Fashion Week on Tuesday by sheathing the showroom in a plush green carpet and pleated drapery. Red was the signature color of the now-ended Sabato De Sarno era, and the color switch from red to green — both integral to the Gucci stripe logo — put a definitive line under it.

The design team had just 2 1/2 weeks to pull together a new collection after De Sarno's hasty departure after just two years. They've done it in less: The Alessandro Michele era launched in 2015 with just a five-day runway.

With Michele, there were signs of what was to come: pussy bows and eclectic looks that appeared plucked from a flea market. It’s hard to know what from the runway signals the brand’s new direction — but a lot recalled Gucci eras past.

Boxy mini-dress silhouettes were reminiscent of the 1960s, and worn with silk scarfs around the head, sometimes over baseball caps. Slinky silk with lace trim dresses heralded the 1990s. Deconstructed pussy-bow blouses trailed romantically, a wave perhaps to the Michele era. And essential straight skirts with deep slits and slim trousers with split hemlines recalled even more recent seasons.

The overall mood was lush, with faux fur, satins and mother of pearl leather setting a luxurious tone.

Front row guests for the Gucci interim included Daisy Edgar Jones, Jessica Chastain, Parker Posey and Dev Patel.

Boxy suit jackets with flat pockets, reminiscent of the 1960s for her; slightly oversized double-blazer looks for him. Overcoats with short arms. Bondage leather gloves. Faux fur coats. Long bows that flow into scarves.